The ICONS A/W25 Trend Report
- Edited by
- Petro Stofberg
- Words by
- Frankie Graddon
Showcasing it has real staying power, chocolate brown isn’t going anywhere this autumn, and it’s no wonder – the rich tone is eminently easy to wear, pairing beautifully with both neutrals and colour. Use it to anchor winter whites and creams or as a luxe backdrop to pops of autumnal reds and tans. If you’ve already bought into brown, try styling coordinating pieces together into a tonal look as seen at Hermès. And don’t be afraid to add your classic black bag – Prada is proof that the black/brown clash works.
At this time of the year, plaids, tartans and checks often feel like a good idea, and this season is no exception. It’s all about channeling a mood of the Highlands: think Balmoral meets Brave Heart – but make it fashion. Look to Burberry for inspiration and add a kilt-style skirt into your autumnal outfit rotation. Classic checked tailoring is a smart area to invest in, as is a beautiful overcoat. Pull out your tartan evening dress for the upcoming party season.
The faux fur coat has become a tried and true winter mainstay. The appeal is two fold: fuzzy textures ooze statement-making glamour while also providing practical warmth. The update this season is to bring what has previously been considered an evening style into daytime, too. Take a cue from Gabriela Hearst and wear yours over a fine rollneck and shirt, or make like Stella McCartney and layer a shaggy pile over a V-neck. Keep all the other textures sleek for essential contrast.
The updater to know this season comes in belt form – specifically wide and worn to create a cinched-waist silhouette. Whether choosing black, brown or tan, invest in good leather that will wear well (faux can often fray at the edges or stretch). Hardware should be premium or risk looking overly shiny or falling off. Make like Max Mara and use one to cut through the primness of a ladylike sweater and full skirt. For an instant outfit update, try tying one around your wool jacket to give it new-season structure.
Nodding to the refined elegance of the season, leather was a focus on the A/W catwalks with everything from jumpsuits, dresses, coats and skirts reimagined in the glossy finish. As for the styling? More is more. We love the luxe effect of Brandon Maxwell’s draped top and skirt co-ord. However, if head-to-toe feels too much, introduce another fabric: team a leather tee with wide wool trousers, or layer a cashmere knit over a leather midi. Easier still? Throw a patent trench over your winter dresses – impactful yet highly wearable.
Thought lace was just for summer? Think again. The delicate fabric gets toughened up this season and is one of the chicest textures to work into your cold-weather wardrobe. Reach for a lace pencil skirt á la Saint Laurent and add knitwear and a tailored jacket for daytime, switching to a silk shirt for dinner. Or make like Carolina Herrera and try a lace co-ord for a fresh spin on winter wedding-guest dressing.
After seasons of trousers being in the spotlight, skirts have been gradually edging their way back into focus. While this summer was all about the mini, the style to rediscover now is the pencil skirt. However, Betty Draper ’50s throwback this is not. Tory Burch showed us how to wear the slim silhouettes in a thoroughly modern way with oversized blazers, while Emilia Wickstead made the case for teaming yours with brogues. Switch up your 9-5 wardrobe by subbing tailored trousers for a pencil skirt and coordinating jacket.
The enduring appeal of leopard print knows no bounds, and this season we were delighted to see it thrust back into the forefront. Now’s the time to pull out your favourite spotted pieces and wear them with confidence. While the catwalks favoured print-on-print styling (try layering your leopard boots under your leopard skirt), for a more subtle take, add a splash to neutral separates or dark denim.
Get a jump-start on autumn by rediscovering your knee-high boots. Classic shapes in glossy black and chocolate were championed on the catwalks, where designers used them to refresh wardrobe staples. At Dior, black patent toughens-up trench coats; Michael Kors showed us how long boots can update your knitted dresses. And if you’re thinking ahead to your winter evening looks, take note of Schiaparelli and layer a heeled pair under a statement coat.
Our favourite looks of the season are rarely the new ones – in fact nothing makes us more excited than when classics are championed. Case in point is ’90s tailoring. Clean and minimal tailored silhouettes have proven their worth time and again in our wardrobes. A jacket over straight-leg jeans, trousers with a cotton shirt – simple and effortless. So if you’re yet to invest, take this as your moment to do so with confidence.
The ‘corporate chic’ aesthetic remains strong this season and it's the perfect mood to tap into as we return to the office after summer. Pinstriped suiting is a key look, as done with aplomb at Ferragamo, Erdem and Sportmax. Choose between oversized cuts or something more fitted – whatever your preference. Shades of grey feel contemporary yet classic and will easily work with the rest of your workwear wardrobe.
Thanks to indigo washes taking centre stage, denim takes on a smarter appeal this autumn. Consider it the perfect shade to bring your white cotton blouses into the new season. Take inspiration from Zimmerman and layer it with light tailoring for a trans-seasonal, office-ready look; worn with bold jewellery, dark denim can work for after dark, too. When it comes to cut, anything goes. Barrel, straight, wide, flared – simply pick your favourite.
Undoubtedly one of the stars of the winter wardrobe is knitwear – and this season it was in sharp focus on the catwalks. Get prepared by taking stock of your collection, repairing any moth holes, combing cashmere and bringing it to the front of your wardrobe ready to reach for. The way to wear knits now? Layered up. Think chunkier jumpers looped over the shoulder of fine gauge styles and big cardigans to wrap up in.
Unexpected though it may sound, this autumn’s footwear inspiration comes straight from the playground. Loafters, brogues, derbys – the shoes to know are scholastic in tone. While these will look great with your tailored trousers – or even straight-leg jeans – our favourite styling idea is to use them to add a little clump to your winter skirts. Remember to keep them shiny – in other words, stock up on shoe polish!